2021-01-15

Wardrobe post 2021: the old school

As you will notice I am very generous in my interpretation of old school: mixing new and old releases, mixing materials, but still keeping it pretty monotone and pretty much the same silhouettes. My interpretation of old school is a romantic nostalgic interpretation, a mix of actual items I used to have from when I started in lolita (2001!) and something that looks like or the actual items I wish I had.

And so I present to you select items from my old school corner of my lolita wardrobe. ❤

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Metamorphose Temps de Fille - Girly Note Parka, 2008
Through lolita I have met lifelong friends. Many of the garments we bought back then we always made a choice of when selling first asking among the close friend group. We called it "keeping it in the family". This hoodie is one of those items that have changed hands and been kept in the family for a long time. If I remember correctly this hoodie was first bought from Japan by one of my friends, sold to another one of my friends, then bought by me, to be sold to a third friend and then bought back by me again. And here it is! Still with me, cutest hoodie. I wear this a lot with regular sweatpants but it works very good in spring and autumn to substitute a light jacket.


Naddine Atelier - commissioned blouse, 2020
While on the topic of friends in lolita, Naddine Atelier is run by a lolita who I have known for almost 12 years. We started hanging out more in the last five years and today she is becoming a professional tailor. This blouse was the first fully new garment I commissioned from her. The blouse is based on several different patterns from the Gothic & Lolita Bibles, Otome no Sewing and Gosu Rori.


Maxicimam - Colline Shirring Blouse, 2020
Maxicimam is one of the older still active Japanese lolita fashion brands and the great thing about them, in my opinion, is that their style has somewhat frozen in time. Most of their releases are perfect for old shool style. What I especially like about this particular model that makes it perfect for old school is the detachable sleeves and the shirred waist. Detachable sleeves makes the blouse versatile. When it comes to the shirred waist, note how the bust part is gathered but not shirred. This creates the silhouette that is useful when pairing a blouse with a skirt, it accentuates the waist and is simple yet decorative enough to be kept over the waist of the skirt. Modern blouses are often less detailed on the bottom because it is now more common to tuck ones blouse inside of the skirt.


Maxicimam - unidentified cutsew, release unknown
Aaah, the classic color combination and my favorite. The bib detail with the rounded collar makes it perfect to pair under just about any JSK or short sleeved OP. In winter time I have even paired it under long sleeved OPs because I have yet to invest in a detachable collar. The buttons on the bib and cuffs are trump symbols.


Vintage aprons, long and short
I do a lot of second hand shopping in anything from "normie" thrift stores to stores focused on specific vintage eras. If you look at my outfit rundowns from pre-2010 you will notice that most of my items are actually second hand offbrand items. So these vintage aprons are perfect for that look and feeling that Metamorphose Temps de Filles Anne of Green Gables series as well as Pink House was (and is) aiming for. The short apron was initially longer but I had it shortened to look appropriate with lolita clothing.


Innocent World - Frederick Party Skirt, Bag and Carry Bag, 2007
This print is one of the most versatile prints I own, which is why I have several items from the series and I would still love more. The gem among these triplet siblings is the carry bag that I received in an Innocent World lucky pack, must have been the lucky pack season of 2007/08? I can't recall when or from where I bought the handbag. I bought the skirt modified to fit a larger waist than the original measurements. It came with the original waistband which I of course have saved. I honestly do not wear skirts that much, this is one of the three skirts I own in my whole wardrobe, but I love this print so much so I keep the skirt. 


Baby the Stars Shine Bright - Karami 3 Tier JSK, various releases
These are hands down my most used dresses in my whole wardrobe. They work like stealthy lolita style when I need to LARP in "normie" settings and it can be dressed up to the nines with pretty much anything. My favorite pairing with these are a floppy bonnet and raschel lace socks.


Baby the Stars Shine Bright - Shirring Hem Scallop, 2007
When I want to be comfortable like a lamb in a fluffy cloud I reach for this JSK. It is starting to get so used that the shirring is becoming too relaxed so I need to replace the elastics.


Angelic Pretty - Velveteen Shoulder Ribbon JSK, 2005
The color of this JSK is so hard to capture and pinpoint. It looks purple on this photo but is more leaning towards dusty pink in person. When researching which release this is I have concluded the official color name is "lavender x white". This release has ribboned lace running vertically where the older releases have frills and ribbon. 


Kazuko Ogawa - unknown OP with capelet, 2002
I no longer fit in this OP but I have held on to it because it was my first lolita brand piece that I bought. I ordered it and three more dresses directly from Kazuko Ogawa. She was the first brand to offer international shipping if you emailed her directly. She asked me to choose which garment I wanted and provide my measurements and that was it. What you can't see in this pic is the clasp of the capelet which is my favorite part of this OP. It is in the shape of a tiny silver cherub. I have a weak spot for cherubs.


Innocent World - Cream Puff JSK, 2006
Fully shirred older Innocent World sometimes fit snugly so there is a risk that the shirring can press on your solar plexus which can make you feel queezy. In this specific cut, a part of the top of the bust is also sewn in a separate part than the rest of the bust (I have a hard time describing exactly, sorry!) so you might get a weird boob shape in this cut. Other than that, I really think these cuts make for a very flattering silhouette.


Innocent World - Musical Score Torchon Lace JSK, 2007
 I have used this so much that the print is starting to fade. This cut is the fully shirred waist JSK cut that does not have the additional separate top part like the Cream Puff JSK. So this will sit more flattering without any risk of upper boob press. I also find the fully shirred waist JSKs are a bit more generous in cotton than chiffon.


Innocent World - Cool Rose JSK, 2007
This pattern and color palette makes me think of something that belongs in grandma's crockery. That's my prediction for future trends by the way: after grandma's couch and curtains, we will aim to be grandma's crockery.


Innocent World - Rococo Doll OP, 2005
It comes with lacing on the front but I removed it. The sleeves are detachable and the sleeve opening is fully shirred. The waist is high so there can be a risk of the waist cutting off at lower part of your bust. Some of the stock photos show this OP with a collar but the seller said they never had a collar. Yet another reason for me to buy a detachable collar, mhmmm.


 Metamorphose Temps de Fille - Self Fabric Frill 4 Tier JSK, 2005
I feel like a flowy gothy lolita forest spirit when I wear this dress and a hat in the summer time. Metamorphose released a spiritual successor to this JSK in 2009 that was made in chiffon. I used to have that too in mint but I has since sold it. That is one of the pieces I still can feel that I miss.


Metamorphose Temps de Fille - Bouquet Print High Waist JSK & Corsage Headdress, 2004
This print is probably the only print I would love to own in all colorways and cuts. I had to have this modified to fit me by using the waistties. When people talk about lolita being an intricate and well detailed fashion I always think of the headdress to this series. I absolutely LOVE the headdress but it is also very typical for early Metamorphose which was at times... special, in their design choices.


Baby the Stars Shine Bright - Alice Ribbon JSK (2002) & Alice Chess Print Tote Bag (2003/04)
This is the oldest cut of Alice Chess which you can tell by the elongated torso (the thumbnail on Lolibrary is another cut but in the page detail the real cut is visible) and the lattice lace at the bottom. This JSK has also been modified with the help of the detachable waist ties and now it fits me like a dream. It would never have been possible if not for the help of Naddine Atelier again. She is truly the best tailor.


Baby the Stars Shine Bright - Baby Doll JSK & Princess Drop Headdress, release uncertain
These items have become regular staples for Baby the Stars Shine Bright. I am sure that it is a much later release though, as in having been released after 2010. I notice this model of the JSK has a slightly longer length, this cut is way past my knee (I am 155 cm). The charms on the headdress make an irritating noise when they dangle.


Metamorphose Temps de Fille - unidentified JSK and half bonnet, release unknown
I bought this set of a friend who found it at Closet Child Harajuku. I can not find this set on Lolibrary but the tag is reminiscent of the era around 2003 and I am still looking for more information on it. The half bonnet is very dramatic with large roses made out of tulle. I am also very fond of the many layers of raschel lace on the bust and the full button down front.


Innocent World - Classical Cat Bloomers, 2010
I remember thinking this print was ridiculous when it was released. But could I resist the bloomers when I saw them for sale from a local lolita? No, I could not. That strong is the power of Innocent World's hypnotic cats.


Jean Paul Gaultier - Antique Window Bag
All the coolest gothic people in street snaps from Tokyo had this bag. I can't remember the exact years but maybe around 2003-05? A funny detail: there is a see through pocket that you can pull out from inside the window. I do not want to ruin the red velvety fabric in the window so I haven't removed it.


Kazuko Ogawa - unknown handbag, 2001
With my order from Kazuko Ogawa (I only had one time to order before the brand was defunct) I recieved this beautiful bag as a freebie. The little silver cherub button is present here as well. I did modify the big bow on the front to stay up, it used to be drooping and the cherub wasn't visible.


Metamorphose Temps de Fille - School Bag, 2008
This is my go to bag when I need to carry around my laptop. The bag itself is pretty heavy so I rarely use it for everyday adventures. Unfortunately it is missing one of the original straps, but it is possible to convert this bag to a backpack with the straps.


Metamorphose Temps de Fille - Felt Boater Hat, 2006/07
Believe it or not, a friend of mine found this at her work in a "normie" second hand store. I was so happy when she gifted it to me. I used to have one just like it that I sold so I am overjoyed to have it back in my wardrobe again.


Victorian Maiden - unidentified hat, release unknown
I highly appreciate the different ribbons that come with this hat: black, brown and white striped and cream. It is a bit flimsy so I had to sew hair combs on the inside to make sure the hat stays on my head when I wear it. I still have the original box. It was bought directly from Victorian Maiden by my friend in 2006.


Metamorphose Temps de Fille - Cross OTKs, 2009 & 2004
Out of all the socks that I have for old school these are my favorites. The other socks I use for old school are mostly the usual lace topped socks in black, white and black x white. Keeping it simple.

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This year I have also done a wardrobe post featuring my brand novelties.

2 comments:

  1. I just loved reading this post! You have immaculate taste and such an incredible collection of old floral pieces.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you so much for your kind words. I do love my florals!

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